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马丁·马吉拉

马丁·马吉拉
作者:马丁·马吉拉时装屋
译者:董方源 / 梁婧云
出版社:重庆大学出版社
出版年:2021-04
ISBN:9787568923750
行业:服装业
浏览数:214

内容简介

这是全世界第一本关于Maison Martin Margiela品牌的图书,由品牌创始人马丁·马吉拉亲自担任艺术指导。

不愿意露脸对着镜头和秀场观众解释自我,国内时尚艺术圈关于他的信息也十分有限,马吉拉选择用文字的方式,将自己的设计理念一一道来。

全书包含超过400张珍贵图片。包括他的设计草图、不同时期的代表作、媒体报道、个人物品和品牌档案等历史资料。

书中讲述了MMM品牌20年的发展历程,马吉拉与团队的合作、工作经历,从时装到艺术展、室内设计和特别项目的创作,以及品牌的起源和品牌理念等。

还收录了10多篇马吉拉亲密朋友撰写的关于他的文章。

如设计师Jean Paul Gaultier、法国高级定制时装协会主席Didier Grumbach、法国VOGUE主编Carine Roitfeld、英国记者兼作家Susannah Frankel、巴黎时尚博物馆馆长Oliver Saillard,以及艺术家Vanessa Beecroft等。

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作者简介

Graduating from Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts in the 1980s, Martin Margiela (and his contemporaries in the Antwerp Six) transformed global fashion with his aggressive restatement of traditional fashion design and a polemical approach to luxury trends. Working first with the house of Gaultier, Margiela absorbed the radical design of Japanese deconstruction, making it wholly his own with the founding of his own label in 1988. Margiela propounds a singular, enigmatic look, moving beyond the recognizable tropes of deconstruction—a monochromatic palette, outsized garments, non-traditional fabrics, exposed seams, or roughly appliquéd details—to develop a fully considered worldview, one with elegance, mystery, and menace in equal measure. This book provides an inside look at the design process from a craftsman who creates pieces prized for their originality, delicacy, and daring. In the spirit of Margiela’s garments, the book is a work of art in itself, designed exclusively by Margiela and complete with silver inks, ribbon markers, a variety of lush paper types, twelve booklets, and an embroidered white-linen cover. This book provides a window onto the intimate, handmade world of a unique designer.

The first book to document the work—from fashion and art to design and performance—of the Paris-based Belgian couturiere, one of the reigning luminaries of the current fashion scene.

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目录

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读书文摘

马吉拉对视觉艺术的强烈兴趣也许来源于他意识到,时尚是被迫去不断适应打破限制的过程,同时也是被寄予希望去打破相同的限制。

“对于艺术家而言,成功不就是表达能触动公众的表达吗?像许多创造性的想法一样,最重要或者说定义‘艺术’的不一定是原创性,而是手法和表达的纯粹度。”

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